Bury St Edmunds Roofers fits exterior cladding in Lavenham, giving homes weathertight, low-maintenance walls that look good and last.
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Exterior cladding is the process of fixing a new surface system to the outside of a wall. Done correctly, it protects the structure beneath from rain penetration, reduces heat loss and removes the need for repeated repainting. It can transform the look of a house that has suffered decades of weathering, and it can also correct underlying issues such as cracked render or deteriorating timber that would otherwise need constant attention.
We install uPVC boards, composite cladding and metal panel systems for homeowners in Lavenham and the surrounding area, working from our base in Bury St Edmunds. The process is the same regardless of material: prepare the wall, fix a batten framework, fit a breathable membrane, then install the boards or panels so the finished surface sheds water reliably.
uPVC is the most widely fitted option on domestic properties. It comes in a range of board profiles including shiplap, tongue-and-groove and flat panel, and is available in colours and woodgrain finishes. It does not rot, does not need painting and wipes clean easily. Installed costs for uPVC cladding typically run from around £40 to £70 per square metre, depending on profile, height and access requirements.
Composite cladding uses a mix of timber fibre and polymer and sits closer in appearance to real timber than uPVC does. It is a strong choice where looks are a priority, and it shares the low-maintenance properties of uPVC. Expect to pay roughly £60 to £100 per square metre installed. Metal panels, most often aluminium, are used on contemporary extensions, commercial structures and some garage conversions, with installed costs starting from around £80 per square metre depending on specification.
Before any material is decided on, the existing wall needs to be inspected. If there is active damp, loose render or rotten timber, those problems must be resolved before cladding is fitted. Cladding over a problem conceals it rather than fixing it, and concealed damp is more damaging than visible damp.
The wall surface is checked first for structural soundness, damp and any existing damage. Loose render is removed, penetrating damp is traced to its source and any necessary repairs are completed before the cladding work begins. This stage sometimes uncovers more than expected, and it is better to know early than to find out later.
Timber or metal battens are then fixed horizontally or vertically across the wall surface, providing a level framework that also creates the cavity needed for drainage and ventilation. A breathable membrane is usually installed between the wall and the battens. The boards are fixed from the bottom upward, each one locking or overlapping the one beneath so that rainwater is always directed away from the wall face.
The junctions at corners, window reveals and door frames are finished with trim pieces. These details are critical: a board face that sheds water perfectly is only as good as the weakest junction at its edge. Gaps left at reveals or corners are a common source of damp problems in cladding that was otherwise well fitted.
Cladding work frequently happens at the same time as fascia and soffit replacement, because scaffolding is already in place and the trades overlap. Fascias are the boards running along the foot of the roof at the eaves, directly behind the guttering. Soffits span the gap between fascia and wall. Both are exposed to the same weather as wall cladding and suffer from the same problems when timber versions age: rot, cracking and paint failure.
If your fascias or soffits are in poor condition, replacing them at the same time as cladding work keeps costs and disruption down. It also makes sense to have guttering checked at the same point. Blocked or broken guttering is a leading cause of water tracking down external walls, and if cladding is fitted without the gutters being in good order, the new surface may face damp ingress from above from the start.
We also carry out roof repairs and, where necessary, full roof replacement. If your project involves the roof as well as the walls, a single contractor managing both avoids the coordination problems that come with multiple trades working around each other.
Once you have booked cladding work, or if you are waiting for quotes and your existing cladding or wall surface has a known problem, there are practical steps you can take to limit further damage. There are also things that seem helpful but can make the job harder or create new problems.
Clear the area immediately around the wall. Remove garden furniture, plant pots and anything else within a metre or two of the wall face. Installers need room to work safely, and anything left close to the wall risks being damaged or becoming a trip hazard during the job. If the work involves scaffolding, the area underneath needs to be free well before the scaffolders arrive.
If there is a climb of vegetation against the wall, cut it back now. Ivy and other climbers attach directly to masonry or boarding, and removing them once they have been growing against a surface for years is significantly more difficult than cutting them back while they are still manageable. Left in place, they make fitting cladding over the area impossible and will need removing before work can start regardless.
If you have noticed a damp patch inside the house that corresponds to an external wall, take a photograph of it and note the date. This kind of evidence is useful when the installer is assessing the wall from the outside, as it helps confirm where any ingress is occurring. Mark the rough position of internal damp patches on a simple sketch if it helps.
Check your guttering above the affected wall. If a gutter joint is leaking or a downpipe is blocked, water will be directed onto the wall face during every rain event. Clearing a blocked downpipe is straightforward and stops additional water damage in the weeks before cladding work takes place. You do not need specialist equipment: a drain rod or even a long stick is usually enough to clear a straightforward blockage at the top of a pipe.
Do not try to re-seal or patch existing cladding boards that are bowing, cracked or pulling away from the wall. Applying fresh sealant over a failing surface gives the appearance of a repair but does not address why the board failed. If a board has moved because the batten behind it has failed, sealant will not hold it, and water will continue to work its way in at the edges even if the face looks sealed.
Do not remove sections of existing cladding yourself in an attempt to check what is behind them. Without knowing how the system was installed, removing boards can disturb the waterproofing layer behind or make it difficult for an installer to assess the original condition of the wall. Leave removal to the installer, who can take the boards off in a controlled sequence and assess what they find without compromising the surrounding area.
Do not apply external masonry paint to a wall that is going to be clad. It is a common instinct to protect a bare wall while waiting for work to begin, but paint on masonry makes it harder for a breathable membrane to be bonded properly, and fresh paint may also need to be removed if it creates an uneven surface for battening. Leave the wall as it is.
Do not try to fit cladding boards yourself if you are not confident with the system. The board face itself is straightforward enough, but the detailing at corners, reveals and the head junction is where errors occur, and these are also the points where water will find any weakness. A single reveal finished without the correct trim can allow water to track down behind the boards for years before the damage becomes visible inside.
If one section of existing cladding is visibly failing, for example boards are split, pulling away or showing signs of mould, the right approach while waiting for an installer is to protect the area from the outside without sealing it completely. A sheet of heavy-duty polythene fixed over the damaged area with battens across the top will shed rain away from the worst of the damage. Do not tape polythene directly to cladding boards, as removing the tape later can damage the surface. Fix it to the wall above the affected section or drape it from the soffit.
If you can see inside the cavity because a board has come away, call an installer sooner rather than later. An open cavity allows wind-driven rain to reach the wall directly, and a few weeks of unprotected exposure can cause a damp problem in an otherwise sound wall.
Comparing cladding quotes is only useful if the quotes are for the same scope of work. Before you accept a price, ask each installer the following:
These questions will expose gaps in a vague quote and give you a fair basis for comparison. An installer who is happy to answer them in writing is giving you something useful to rely on if questions arise during the job.
We cover Lavenham and the wider area from our base in Bury St Edmunds. We also work in and around Thetford, Mildenhall and Stowmarket. If your home needs cladding work, call us to arrange a site visit and a clear, itemised quote so you know exactly what is included before any work starts.
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Call any time. Calls are answered day and night and passed straight to our roofers.
